Tuesday, October 26News That Matters

Tag: Chefs

Restaurant Review: Shukette in Chelsea

Restaurant Review: Shukette in Chelsea

LifeStyle
Shukette is the chef Ayesha J. Nurdjaja’s faster, looser, louder spinoff of Shuka. Both restaurants get their names from shuk, the Hebrew word for an open-air market, and Shukette gets more than that: the commotion and noise, the smell of cumin and charcoal, the head-spinning array of snacks and pickles and dips and skewers and hot disks of bread all evoke a Middle Eastern bazaar at full tilt.Ms. Nurdjaja (pronounced nur-JYE-uh) opened Shukette in Chelsea in early July with the company that owns Shuka, Cookshop and other restaurants. Working behind the counter in an open kitchen that runs almost the entire length of the dining room, she loads her plates with fresh herbs and other produce. (It’s the way I cook when I’ve come home from the farmers’ market with one of everything.) Some of her...
Fall Restaurant Preview: A Reboot for New York

Fall Restaurant Preview: A Reboot for New York

LifeStyle
Yoshino New YorkWith just 12 comfy chairs, not stools, the chef Tadashi Yoshida will prepare sushi omakase dinners with approximately six appetizers, 12 pieces of sushi and dessert, for $400. The chef, who followed his father behind the sushi counter, relocated his father’s restaurant to Nagoya, a city between Tokyo and Osaka. It closed in 2019. He said he takes liberties with his preparations, influenced by his work in a French restaurant. He is known for his binchotan grilled mackerel.342 Bowery (Bond Street), NoHo, Sept. 23.Kaiseki Room by YamadaIsao Yamada, who was at the counter of David Bouley’s Brushstroke from 2010 until 2018, is opening this formal 20-seat tasting-menu restaurant that takes its inspiration from Kyoto’s tea ceremony. The restaurant, done in refined natural wood, is...
The Sisters Behind Veracruz All Natural’s Breakfast Tacos in Austin

The Sisters Behind Veracruz All Natural’s Breakfast Tacos in Austin

LifeStyle
AUSTIN, Texas — It was early morning in the lobby of the Line Hotel, and everyone was eating migas.The migas, from a restaurant called Veracruz All Natural, have long been a fixation for the breakfast-taco-obsessed populace of Austin: scrambled eggs flecked with pico de gallo and freshly made tortilla chips that hang onto their crunch, then topped messily with Monterey Jack cheese, cilantro and a sliver of avocado. The whole thing is nestled into a tortilla and wrapped tightly in foil like a present.“When I go out of town, that is the meal I have before I leave, and when I come back into town, that is the meal I have,” said Nadia Chaudhury, the editor of Eater Austin. “Theirs is by far the best example of Austin’s tacos.”But if the migas, sold in the hotel and five other locations, are att...
Restaurant Review: Cadence, Vegan Soul Food in the East Village

Restaurant Review: Cadence, Vegan Soul Food in the East Village

LifeStyle
As long as the restaurant business is examining its assumptions about the way it operates, maybe it is time to ask whether experience in famous kitchens is overrated.The thought has been on my mind since I started eating at Cadence, a vegan restaurant in the East Village. The chef is Shenarri Freeman, and Cadence is the first professional kitchen she has run. Her longest stretch as a cook was the four years she spent working at a nightclub in Washington that is better known for the musicians it books. In 2019, Ms. Freeman, a vegan, enrolled in a new program for “plant-based, nutrition-minded cooking” at the Institute of Culinary Education. This spring, shortly before she graduated, she opened Cadence, one of 10 eating and drinking places owned by Ravi DeRossi’s Overthrow Hospitality group....
Batali & Bastianich Sexual Harassment Case Reaches Settlement

Batali & Bastianich Sexual Harassment Case Reaches Settlement

LifeStyle
An investigation into the once-towering Manhattan restaurant business built by the chef Mario Batali and his former partner Joe Bastianich revealed a sexualized culture so rife with harassment and retaliation that it violated state and city human rights laws, the New York State attorney general, Letitia James, announced on Friday.As part of a settlement brokered by Ms. James’s office, the two men and Pasta Resources, the company formerly known as the Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group, will pay a total of $600,000 to at least 20 women and men who were sexually harassed while they worked at the Manhattan restaurants Babbo, Lupa or Del Posto, which until it closed permanently in April was the crown jewel among the men’s holdings.The investigation detailed formally what former employee...
At Torien, Pleasures on the End of a Stick

At Torien, Pleasures on the End of a Stick

LifeStyle
Of all the places in Japan where yakitori is sold — the all-night convenience stores, vending machines, izakayas, yearly fairs and seasonal festivals, the crowded inlets around train station entrances, the two-wheeled pushcarts known as yata — the Tokyo restaurant Torishiki is, by general acclaim, considered the best. Those who have secured places at one of its 17 counter seats speak of a chicken-skewer meal there as if it were a kind of chamber-music recital and Yoshiteru Ikegawa, the proprietor and chef, were a virtuoso whose instrument happened to be a charcoal grill.Standing before a long, narrow trough of fiendishly hot oak embers, almost never looking up, he will raise the heat by rapidly waving a paper fan at the coals, then return to fractionally adjusting the position of each skew...
The New American Chinese Food: The Restaurants Redefining a Genre

The New American Chinese Food: The Restaurants Redefining a Genre

LifeStyle
In 1983, Tim Ma’s parents opened Bamboo Garden in Conway, Ark. It was a side hustle — his mother was in graduate school, and his father worked full-time as a medical technician. As owners of the only Chinese restaurant in their small town, the Mas made good money in their first year. But it wasn’t without setbacks. There was the brick hurled into their family’s home, the drunken driver who crashed into the restaurant’s dining room and the eventual arrival of competition, when their talented chef opened his own restaurant across the street.The struggles the Mas endured informed their son’s future career in food, and his new restaurant, Lucky Danger. The Washington, D.C., takeout spot, which he opened with Andrew Chiou in November, is a reflection of the Asian American experience, he said.“I...
The PBS Chef Martin Yan Teaches Chinese Cooking to a New Audience

The PBS Chef Martin Yan Teaches Chinese Cooking to a New Audience

LifeStyle
HILLSBOROUGH, Calif. — Live from his home kitchen in the Bay Area, Martin Yan flashed a smile, raised his cleaver and chanted the catchphrase that the 150 or so people watching him online were clamoring to hear: “If Yan can cook, so can you!”For Mr. Yan — who over a four-decade career has played the roles of television personality, cookbook author, restaurateur and now YouTube host — this longtime slogan is more than just a shtick. It’s a summary of all he believes in. If a soft-spoken boy from Guangzhou, China, can make it big in America cooking stir-fries and dumplings, he figures, anyone can do just about anything.Mr. Yan doesn’t have an enormous social media following or a list of viral recipes to his name. But his impact on the culinary sphere is immeasurable. In 1982, at age 33, Mr. ...
Upended by the Pandemic, Haute Chefs Move Into Hotels

Upended by the Pandemic, Haute Chefs Move Into Hotels

Travel
Yogis and nature enthusiasts have long flocked to Ojai, a verdant mountain enclave 90 minutes north of Los Angeles — gastronomes, not so much. That changed during the pandemic, when the Ojai Valley Inn turned its sprawling, indoor-outdoor farmhouse — formally a wedding venue before the coronavirus upended plans — into a stage for a revolving cast of high-end chefs.Among the marquee names: Christopher Kostow, the executive chef of California’s three-Michelin-starred paragon of fine dining, the Restaurant at Meadowood. Located more than 400 miles to the north in Napa Valley, it burned down in a September wildfire. “That, on top of Covid, gave us this feeling like, ‘God only knows what’s going to happen next,’” Mr. Kostow said.To pay his staff, Mr. Kostow would have to set up shop elsewhere. ...
Island Residents Protest at the Willows Inn After Workplace Allegations

Island Residents Protest at the Willows Inn After Workplace Allegations

LifeStyle
LUMMI ISLAND, Wash. — Carrying hand-painted signs with slogans like “Take Sexism Off the Menu!” and “Racism is NOT a Local Ingredient,” about 50 protesters gathered Friday night outside the Willows Inn, a world-renowned restaurant on this tiny island near the Canadian border.The protesters, mostly island residents, were calling for the resignation of Blaine Wetzel, the restaurant’s chef, who has been accused by 35 former employees of creating a workplace riddled with homophobic and racist language, verbal abuse, sexism and sexual harassment.Mr. Wetzel, 35, who built his reputation touting the Willows’ pristine ingredients as coming from Lummi and its environs, is also accused of deceiving customers — who pay at least $285 for dinner with tax and service, not including drinks — by regularly...