Friday, January 21News That Matters

Tag: Veganism

The Highlight of Mary and Paul McCartney’s Holiday Is Yorkshire Pudding

The Highlight of Mary and Paul McCartney’s Holiday Is Yorkshire Pudding

LifeStyle
The way Paul McCartney remembers it, the centerpiece of his family’s first vegetarian Christmas dinner, in the late 1970s, was a slab of macaroni and cheese.“I wanted something to carve,” he said in a phone interview last week. Mary McCartney, his daughter, said the “macaroni turkey” was an early success: cooked in advance, shaped into a roll and ceremonially turned out onto a platter.Mr. McCartney was raised in Liverpool in the 1950s on a traditional meat-and-two-veg diet. But as young parents, he and his American wife Linda McCartney famously came to believe that eating animals was unethical — then a fringe belief in Britain, in the same counterculture bucket as mindfulness, yogurt and pacifism. Still, a Christmas feast without its meaty centerpiece of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding se...
Connecting With West Africa’s Plant-Based Past

Connecting With West Africa’s Plant-Based Past

LifeStyle
When she moved back to Lagos in 2010 after living and working abroad, Affiong Osuchukwu noticed that a lot of the Nigerian food she cherished had become meat-centric. Although the essence of the dishes hadn’t changed, they seemed, to her, to be meatier.“I never recalled a pot of soup as having as much meat and fish as I see today,” she said. “My running joke is ‘Where is the soup in the soup?’ Because all I see is animal parts. The soup is not there.”Ms. Osuchukwu runs Plant Food Federation, a website focused on plant-based approaches to Nigerian cuisine, and she is one of many cooks in West Africa and the diaspora navigating the experience of being vegan in a culture that holds certain ideas about food close. She is also part of a growing number of people trying to confront a misconceptio...

Restaurant Review: Aunts et Uncles in Flatbush, Brooklyn

LifeStyle
New ideas are bubbling up faster in vegan restaurants than in any other kind of kitchen right now. People who can’t see this are looking in the wrong places. They’re probably used to seeing creative leaps that started in kitchens that function as research laboratories, like Noma in the last decade and El Bulli before that, and then trickled down to other restaurants.But vegan cooking isn’t trickling down. It’s trickling up. First it was a fringe diet, then a grass-roots movement. Those roots were eventually fertilized by ad campaigns from animal-rights groups. Now that well-funded companies including Impossible Foods, Beyond Meat and Tyson Foods have “plant-based” products to push, veganism has a marketing budget PETA never dreamed of. Restaurants can’t lead this movement. They can barely ...
Eleven Madison Park Explores the Plant Kingdom’s Uncanny Valley

Eleven Madison Park Explores the Plant Kingdom’s Uncanny Valley

LifeStyle
The man with the hammer treats everything as a nail, the saying goes. Something like that seems to be afflicting Eleven Madison Park in its new vegan incarnation. The restaurant’s chef and owner, Daniel Humm, is using the skills he brought to meat and seafood to whack away at vegetables.Almost none of the main ingredients taste quite like themselves in the 10-course, $335 menu the restaurant unwrapped this June after a 15-month pandemic hiatus. Some are so obviously standing in for meat or fish that you almost feel sorry for them.We should have seen something like this coming when Mr. Humm announced the animal-free policy in May. Eleven Madison Park is one of the most closely watched restaurants on the planet, drawing press coverage even for its minor adjustments. This one, not minor, made...
Plant-Based Foods Expand, With Consumers Hungry for More

Plant-Based Foods Expand, With Consumers Hungry for More

Business
In the fall of 2018, Jenny Goldfarb suddenly had a craving for a corned beef and pastrami sandwich.For Ms. Goldfarb — who grew up in a New York Jewish deli family — it was the classic sandwich of her youth. But her yearning came with a hitch: She is now vegan.So she started working with wheat protein, adding beets for a “meat” color, and dipping the mixture into different brines and spices. After a couple of months, she had come up with a vegan substitute. She took her vegan corned beef from her home in the San Fernando Valley to a Los Angeles deli, which placed an order for 50 pounds. She cried tears of joy in her car.These days, Ms. Goldfarb is shipping orders for up to 50,000 pounds of her Unreal Deli corned beef, turkey and, most recently, steak slices to grocery stores all over the co...
Restaurant Review: Cadence, Vegan Soul Food in the East Village

Restaurant Review: Cadence, Vegan Soul Food in the East Village

LifeStyle
As long as the restaurant business is examining its assumptions about the way it operates, maybe it is time to ask whether experience in famous kitchens is overrated.The thought has been on my mind since I started eating at Cadence, a vegan restaurant in the East Village. The chef is Shenarri Freeman, and Cadence is the first professional kitchen she has run. Her longest stretch as a cook was the four years she spent working at a nightclub in Washington that is better known for the musicians it books. In 2019, Ms. Freeman, a vegan, enrolled in a new program for “plant-based, nutrition-minded cooking” at the Institute of Culinary Education. This spring, shortly before she graduated, she opened Cadence, one of 10 eating and drinking places owned by Ravi DeRossi’s Overthrow Hospitality group....
Oatly, a Maker of Oat Milk, Is About to Have Its IPO

Oatly, a Maker of Oat Milk, Is About to Have Its IPO

Business
Private equity has a place at the table, and so do Oprah and Jay-Z. Food giants like Nestlé are scrambling to get a foot in the door. There are implications for the climate. There are even geopolitical rumblings.The unlikely focus of this excitement is Oatly, producer of a milk substitute made from oats that can be poured on cereal or foamed for a cappuccino. Oatly, a Swedish company, will sell shares to the public for the first time this week in an offering that could value it at $10 billion and exemplify the changes in consumer preferences that are reshaping the food business.It’s no longer enough for food to taste good and be healthy. More people want to make sure that their ketchup, cookies or mac and cheese are not helping to melt the polar ice caps. Food production is a leading contr...
Think Outside the Banana. Eat the Peel.

Think Outside the Banana. Eat the Peel.

LifeStyle
In November, the British cookbook author and food personality Nigella Lawson shocked her nation when she demonstrated a recipe from her latest cookbook, “Cook, Eat, Repeat,” on her BBC television show of the same name. It wasn’t royal family-level scandalous. Still, based on public reaction, you’d think she’d caused a major controversy.And all because she’d prepared a fragrant dish of cauliflower — and banana peels.“I certainly didn’t expect newspaper headlines about it!” she said in an email. “It’s hard to overcome the cultural assumptions about what is and is not edible, and to start eating what we have customarily regarded as waste.”A few months earlier, another British culinary television star and cookbook author, Nadiya Hussain, had appeared on a “Good Morning Britain” segment on cook...
Eleven Madison Park Goes Meatless

Eleven Madison Park Goes Meatless

Technology, World
The highly acclaimed Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park said on Monday that it would no longer serve meat or seafood when it reopens next month, becoming one of the most high-profile restaurants to switch to a plant-based menu because of environmental concerns.Daniel Humm, the chef and an owner, said in a statement on the restaurant’s website, “It was clear that after everything we all experienced this past year, we couldn’t open the same restaurant.”Mr. Humm said that the coronavirus pandemic, which led to closure and layoffs, had forced the restaurant’s leaders to reimagine its future. “We have always operated with sensitivity to the impact we have on our surroundings,” he said, “but it was becoming ever clearer that the current food system is simply not sustainable, in so many way...
This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time

This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time

LifeStyle
With most ramen, the work that’s put into the broth is what makes all the difference, providing the foundation for the entire dish. A broth made with pork, chicken or seafood can be cooked for up to three days, resulting in an intense, velvety soup that sings with complex, multilayered flavors.So it may feel unfair to stack a quick-cooked vegan broth up against a meaty one that has been toiled over for dozens of hours. But the creamy, meatless broth behind tantanmen stands up formidably to the challenge, coming together in little time without sacrificing flavor or body.Tantanmen, which finds its origins in the Sichuan dish dan dan noodles, derives its power not from a labored broth, but from a mildly sweet soy milk base combined with flavorful seasonings, which the Japanese call tare.Here,...